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A Royal Journey: Seven Castles that Echo the Presence of King Ludwig II in Bavaria

Night owl, camp icon, and technology enthusiast—King Ludwig II (1845-86) of Bavaria stands as one of the most renowned figures in Bavarian history, and not solely due to Neuschwanstein Castle, which inspired Disney's Cinderella Castle. 'I want to remain an eternal mystery to myself and others,' Ludwig once wrote. Dreaming of bygone eras and captivated by the latest technology, he chose to live in complete seclusion while still embodying the traits of a conscientious statesman.

Representative portrait of King Ludwig II of Bavaria in ermine-trimmed coronation robe and uniform
Always smart, whether in full coronation regalia or very casual - the young King Ludwig II of Bavaria. Ferdinand von Piloty, Ludwig II in his coronation robe, 1865 © Bayerische Staatsgemäldesammlungen München
Black and white photograph of the young Crown Prince Ludwig in suit and coat
King Ludwig II at Schloss Hohenschwangau (Hohenschwangau Castle), 1864 (via zeno) ©  Joseph Albert

King Ludwig II lived during turbulent times marked by the Industrial Revolution, the Wars of German Unification, and the gradual decline of the Bavarian crown's influence—significant events that demanded his attention as a monarch. The circumstances surrounding his deposition and mysterious death in Lake Starnberg remain unclear to this day. Was it a failed escape attempt, suicide, or possibly murder?

While Ludwig had numerous admirers, myths, and legends during his lifetime, the speculation intensified after his death. What had become of the beloved "Kini" (Bavarian: King)? Even today, the king's enthusiasts persist. Flowers are regularly placed in front of his coffin in the crypt of St. Michael's Church (external link, opens in a new window) in Munich, reminiscent of gestures for a rock star. Researchers and biographers continually delve into aspects of his life, whether it be his homosexuality — an open secret during his lifetime (his engagement to his cousin Sophie Charlotte in Bavaria was short-lived) — his potential mental illness, or his unbridled passion for art, history and technology. Ludwig's ideas were visionary and often met with incomprehension; years ahead of the first flights by Otto Lilienthal and the Wright brothers, he dreamt of navigating Lake Alpsee in a golden peacock gondola — an impossibility at the time. Little wonder some labeled him a fool.

King Ludwig never extensively traveled the world; rather, inspiration for his fantastical realms derived from history, art, and literature. He meticulously oversaw every detail of their realization, revising construction plans and designs numerous times. His creations, like time machines, aimed to transport their inhabitant to extraordinary worlds — be it the medieval legends, the court of the French Sun King, or the palace of the Turkish Sultan. "Oh, it is necessary to create such paradises, such poetic sanctuaries, where one can forget for a while the dreadful times in which we live," explained Ludwig himself once. Unwilling to grant unauthorized access to his castles, Ludwig even ordered them to be destroyed after his death. Fortunately, officials did not heed this directive, allowing us to explore the enchantment of the fairytale king for ourselves.

Oh, it is necessary to create such paradises, such poetic havens where we can forget for a while the dreadful times we live in.

Ludwig II of Bavaria

Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace) in Munich

Exterior view of Nymphenburg Palace with water and gondola in the foreground
© München Tourismus. Foto: Werner Boehm
Painting of King Ludwig II taking a ride in his gold-decorated four-horse sleigh in a snowy landscape
R. Wenig: Ludwig II's sleigh ride at night, around 1880 © Bayerische Schlösserverwaltung

This is where the story begins: in the green parlour of Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace) Ludwig Otto Friedrich Wilhelm von Wittelsbach saw the light of day on August 25th 1845 - on the same day and at the same hour as his grandfather King Ludwig I. What was celebrated at the time as a happy coincidence or even divine providence was probably not entirely true. The birth of baby Ludwig was probably kept secret for a few days in order to wait for St Ludwig's name day. As the eldest son of Crown Prince Maximilian and Crown Princess Marie, a bright future as King of Bavaria awaited him.

As an adult, however, Ludwig had little interest in Schloss Nymphenburg (Nymphenburg Palace). He preferred to create his own domicile in the mountains, far away from the hustle and bustle of the state capital. The palace was therefore mainly used as accommodation for relatives. Nonetheless, he left an indelible mark here: At the Marstall Museum, you can marvel at Ludwig's intricately gilded ceremonial carriages, along with 25 portraits of his favourite horses. King Ludwig, a true horse enthusiast, relished spending hours on horseback. He also delighted in nighttime rides in his magnificent sleighs, equipped with the latest technology — namely, light bulbs and lead batteries. Rose Island in Lake Starnberg was another of his cherished retreats.

Schloss Hohenschwangau (Hohenschwangau Castle)

View of the palace with a breathtaking mountain panorama
© Wittelsbacher Ausgleichsfonds München

Schloss Hohenschwangau (Hohenschwangau Castle) is where Ludwig and his younger brother Otto spent a large part of their childhood. From here he could let his gaze roam over the serene Alpsee and Schwansee lakes, lush wooded hills, and the distant Alps. Recently, their father had undertaken an extensive renovation of the dilapidated castle. Their nature-loving mother, Crown Princess Marie, frequently led the young princes on hikes through the surrounding area. The antiquated castle itself left a profound impression on young Ludwig. Adorned in neo-Gothic style, it resembled the castles of heroes from Bavarian history and legends, depicted on murals throughout the structure. In the Heroes' Hall and the Castle Ladies' Room, he envisioned a life among valiant knights and noble damsels, admiring the feats of the virtuous Lohengrin in the Swan Knight's Hall. The castle ruins on the opposite hill further fueled Prince Ludwig's imagination. It was on this very site that Schloss Neuschwanstein (Neuschwanstein Castle) would later be erected.

Tip: Be sure to visit the Museum der bayerischen Könige (Museum of the Bavarian Kings) where you can find out more about Ludwig's childhood and the history of the Wittelsbach family! The Hall of the Kings also offers a marvellous view over the Alpsee.

Munich Residence

Königsbau of the Munich Residenz, adjacent to the Hofgarten
© Bayerische Schlösserverwaltung

The year was 1864 - at the time, the whole of Bavaria had a crush on young Crown Prince Ludwig. Tall and handsome, the 18-year-old was the pride and joy of the Bavarian royal family. He was fascinated by horses, literature and, of course, opera - especially Richard Wagner's music. The prince wrote somewhat uncertainly in his diary: "The only thing I know about my future is that I will soon swear an oath to the constitution. I will probably stay in Munich beforehand; later I think I will go to university!"

But everything turned out differently: King Maximilian II. Joseph, who had been struggling with health problems for several years, died of a short but severe infection at the age of 53. On the same day, Ludwig was proclaimed the new King of Bavaria. The young ruler was ill-prepared for his new office. His distant father had barely involved him in his royal duties, and his planned studies in Göttingen had to be cancelled. Ludwig's place of residence for the time being was the residence in Munich, the official seat of power of the Bavarian kings. One of his first official acts was to appoint Richard Wagner as a court artist in Munich.

Following the example of his predecessors, Ludwig wanted to leave his mark on the state capital - patronage of the arts and prestigious building projects were virtually a royal duty. However, the grand plans for a Richard Wagner Festival Theatre above the Isar were blocked by his bureaucrats. In any case, Ludwig's advisors did not have much use for the notoriously indebted composer, who was putting silly fantasies into their king's head and taking money out of his pocket. After just over a year, Ludwig had to let his fatherly friend go under pressure from the population and the government.

Schloss Neuschwanstein (Neuschwanstein Castle)

An exterior view of the palace with mountains in the background.
©  Bayerische Schlösserverwaltung (Foto: www.kreativ-instinkt.de)
Gold-adorned throne room reminiscent of a Byzantine church
Thronsaal von Schloss Neuschwanstein © Bayerische Schlösserverwaltung

Ludwig's architectural endeavors in Munich leaned towards subtlety, exemplified by the unadorned structure of the New Polytechnic School (now the Technical University of Munich), an institution he founded. However, his passion for design truly ignited when it came to his residences. Collaborating with his court architect Eduard Riedel, Ludwig conceptualized a plethora of sketches and plans. The challenge then lay in identifying the ideal locations for these new palaces.

Ludwig's inaugural venture involved the reconstruction of the castle ruins in Hohenschwangau, eventually materializing as the majestic Schloss Neuschwanstein (Neuschwanstein Castle). Since childhood, he had envisioned the splendor of the old castle, and now, his dream was poised to become a reality — "in the style of authentic German knights' castles", yet more magnificent and expansive than ever before. Notably, Neuschwanstein Castle later served as the inspiration for Walt Disney's iconic fairytale castle. 

The ambitious project demanded the removal of a substantial eight meters of rock from the hilltop to accommodate the new castle. Modern materials (and a whole lot of explosives) were employed to realize these daring plans. For instance, the throne room stands on double steel T-beams, and plastered cast iron pipes, transported to the site using a steam crane, serve as pillars. Even before the completion of the castle's shell, Ludwig embarked on subsequent projects. He initiated the construction of the Königshaus am Schachen (Royal House at Schachen) and Schloss Linderhof (Linderhof Castle) in close proximity. Plans for Schloss Herrenchiemsee (Herrenchiemsee Palace) followed shortly thereafter. In a remarkably short span, the southern countryside of Bavaria transformed into an extensive construction site. Starting from 1873, Ludwig concurrently advanced his projects — a costly but ambitious endeavor.

Schloss Linderhof (Linderhof Castle)

Elevated view of Linderhof Palace in summer; a fountain splashes in the foreground while a mountain with lush forest rises in the background
© erlebe.bayern - Gert Krautbauer

More akin to a luxurious villa than a mere summer residence, Schloss Linderhof (Linderhof Castle), commissioned by Ludwig near Ettal Abbey, transformed from his father's humble hunting lodge, promptly relocated for spatial considerations. Drawing inspiration from Marie Antoinette's Petit Trianon in the Rococo style, Linderhof unveiled a paradisiacal oasis amidst the mountains. Ludwig spent approximately eight years of his life here, immersed in opulent furnishings and surrounded by luxurious technological marvels, such as a small table in the dining room and cutting-edge electric lighting.

A standout feature in the palace park is the Venus Grotto, an artificial stalactite cave adorned with a lake and waterfall — a birthday gift Ludwig presented to himself. Rumor has it that his attendants faced a regular challenge herding wild swans into the grotto, allowing the king to delight in the presence of his favorite animals while being rowed around in an extravagant mussel shaped boat. Electric lamps, a water heater, and a wave machine collectively crafted an enchanting ambiance — all powered by Bavaria's first power station.

I want to remain an eternal mystery to myself and others.

Ludwig II of Bavaria

Königshaus am Schachen (Royal house at Schachen)

King's House on Schachen
©  Bayerische Schlösserverwaltung
Lavishly decorated interior of the King's House with peacock feathers, gold, and Persian rugs
© Bayerische Schlösserverwaltung

The Königshaus am Schachen (Royal house at Schachen) may present itself as a modest holiday cottage from the exterior, but step inside, and you'll find the splendid Turkish Room. Adorned with stained glass windows, embroidered divans, and a fountain, this room brings to life a fantasy of the tales from 1001 Nights. Concealed servants swiftly deliver tea and a water pipe, creating an enchanting atmosphere that momentarily transports you far away from the heart of the Bavarian Alps. It's said that Ludwig marked his birthday here every year on August 25 with an extravagant celebration illuminated by a hundred candles. While the royal house is only accessible for a few months each year, the digital panoramic view (external link, opens in a new window) of the upper floor is certainly a worthwhile experience.

Unlike King Ludwig, you won't arrive at Schachen in a horse-drawn carriage; you'll need to traverse the royal path (approximately 3.5 hour hike (external link, opens in a new window) from Elmau, trailrunning shoes and good physical condition required) on your own. Your efforts will be handsomely rewarded with a breathtaking view of the Wetterstein Mountains. Another highlight here is the Alpengarten am Schachen (Alpine garden at Schachen), established for research purposes after Ludwig's time at an elevation of 1,860 meters. Delicate pink lilies from the Himalayas and South African Cape asters flourish here in close proximity to gentian, alpine edelweiss, and pasqueflower. Particularly in the summer months, a myriad of flowers come to life, making a visit exceptionally worthwhile.

Neues Schloss Herrenchiemsee (New Herrenchiemsee Palace)

Wasserspielen im Schlosspark Herrenchiemsee
© erlebe.bayern - Peter von Felbert
Sumptuously designed interior of the New Palace Herrenchiemsee
© erlebe.bayern - Peter von Felbert

The initiation of the construction of Neues Schloss Herrenchiemsee (New Herrenchiemsee Palace) came in 1873 with a succinct telegram: "Finalise the purchase immediately, the site appears to be suitable. Ludwig." Ludwig, in pursuit of his Bavarian Versailles, acquired the island of Herrenchiemsee from timber speculators primarily interested in the island's old trees. The original plans for the palace were intended for the present site of Schloss Linderhof (Linderhof Castle), but the location proved unsuitable. Inspired by Louis XIV, the French Sun King, Herrenchiemsee Palace became the embodiment of Ludwig's fantasies of the opulence of a bygone era, complete with must-haves like the Latona Fountain and the famous Hall of Mirrors.

Constructing a castle on an island in the midst of Lake Chiemsee — referred to as the Bavarian Sea due to its vastness and depth — presented a unique challenge. A state-of-the-art tugboat was essential to transport materials to the construction site. Additionally, an arsenal of steam-driven pumps was employed to manage the extensive water features surrounding the palace.

The beginning of the end

However, Ludwig was no longer destined to witness the completion of the fountains on Herreninsel. Increasingly criticized for his lifestyle, Ludwig had largely withdrawn from public appearances for years. His mountain of debt continued to mount, leading to the suspension of construction work on many of his projects. Ludwig's request for state building funds to finance his palaces faced significant resistance from his ministers. In their eyes, the lavish construction of representative palaces in an increasingly democratically organized state appeared out of step with the times.

In June 1886, Ludwig was officially declared incapacitated by the government on grounds of alleged mental illness, detained, and taken to Schloss Berg (Berg Castle). On June 13, Ludwig, at the age of 40, passed away under unexplained circumstances in Lake Starnberg. Unmarried and childless, he bequeathed the throne to his younger brother Otto, who was promptly deemed unfit to rule due to mental illness and replaced by their uncle, Luitpold.

Many dreams of the fairytale king remained unrealized; neither Schloss Neuschwanstein nor Schloss Herrenchiemsee was ever completed. Other unrealized projects exist only in the form of sketches, plans, and models, now showcased in the König Ludwig II.-Museum (King Ludwig II Museum in the New Herrenchiemsee Palace). The variety is extensive, ranging from the lavish peacock gondola lift on the Alpsee to Falkenstein Castle, and expansive palaces inspired by Chinese and Byzantine architecture. One can only wonder how different Bavaria might look today if Ludwig had brought these visions to fruition.

Anna Blenninger